CUSCO PERU

Huari and Tiahuanaco Cultures

The fertile valley surrounding modern day Cusco has been home to many cultures over the past several thousand years. The first significant culture that made a lasting impression on what makes up Cusco today were the Huari (Wari) and the Tiahuanaco Cultures. The Wari was the first significant empire in Peru dominated much of the coast of Peru and into the Andes to just south of Cusco between 500 - 1100 AD.

Much of what today is considered Incan, has its origins in the Huari Culture. The incorporation of aqueducts, fountains and irrigation canals was brought throughout their kingdom and can be seen throughout the Cusco region. Terraced hillsides commonly referred to as Incan Terraces built into the sides and mountains constructed to increase the land capable of producing agriculture were a practice that was prevalent in the Huari era.

Over the centuries the construction techniques improved and the laying of materials to allow better drainage to avoid flooding during years of great rainfall was incorporated into the terraces. During the time of the Incas the terracing reached its apex with the use of filling and stone wall and can be seen throughout the region and most dramatically in the The Sacred Valley of the Incas and at Machu Picchu.

The Huari built roads between their cities to aid with communication within their kingdom, the bases of the roads can be seen in the many Inca Trails throughout Cusco Region and beyond.

The Huari's were also deeply influenced by the Tiahuanco Culture to the south (located in the Lake Titicaca and Bolivia Region. The Tiahuanco practice of worshiping the sun as a god was spread to the region under the Huari. As was the practice of constructing cities of stone rather than adobe, as seen in other regions of Peru were introduced to the Cusco region. The stones were cut and closely fitted together to form the walls of new structures which often had two to three stories. Similar construction can be seen at the Incan sites of Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu. The best preserved Huari cities in the region are Pikillacta located to the east of Cusco, Chokepukio south of Cusco, and Vilcamba the city east of Cusco which was never discovered by the Incas. It was in Vilcabamba in 2010 that 16 tombs including the Lord of Huari were unearthed. The gold, silver, lapis and ceramic artifacts discovered here can be viewed at the Casa Garcilaso Museum in Cusco.

It was during the reign of the Huari that the use of Quipu the knotted cords used to count items came into use and the Quecha language was spread to the area. Quecha was the language of the Andean people prior to the arrival of the Spanish and is still spoken by many indigenous people throughout the region today.

Kilke Culture

Between the eras of the Huari and the Incas there were several local cultures living within the Cusco area. Though the Incas traditions see its greatest influences from the Huari, Nazca and Tihuanaco Cultures, the influence of the Kilke Culture is of great importance. The Kilke lived in the Cusco Valley between 900 - 1200 AD it was the Kilke who began the construction of Cusco with many of its great walls as well as the early fortress of Sacsayhuman.

Inca Culture

The earliest history of the Incas has them as a congregation of highlanders who migrant's from the Southern Andes who came to settle in the Cusco Valley from the Southern Andes sometime around 1200 AD. Cusco and the Incas were only of slight importance until the neighboring Chancas from the Apurimac region attempted to invade Cusco in the 15th Century.

The battle is one which was popular in Incan Lore. The mighty Chancas arrived in Cusco with great force. The king, Viracocha, and his son the crowned prince fled the city in fear. It was the younger son, Pachacutec who rallied the locals and efforts sharply defeated the Chancas. To reward both his efforts and bravery, Pachacutec's father the king named him as the joint ruler of the Incas. This act was the defining moment of Inca History. Pachacutec often referred to as The Napoleon of the Andes would continue a series of military campaigns which rapidly changed the Incas from a small city state to a formidable nation.

It was under Pachacutec and Tupac Yupanqui that the Incan Empire was shaped and Cusco was created into its great capital. The city of Cusco was reconstructed over a period of 20 years. A keen civic planner, Pachacutec vision for Cusco the changed the very way of life of the Inca people, he envisioned the capital of a great kingdom. Where the four corners would come together and Cusco would be in the center. Through his vision cities would be organized in a hierarchical manner. The urban center would unite administrative and religious functions. While outlying areas and satellite towns were situated in a cultivated zone were units of agricultural, artisanal, and industrial production.

It was under the reigns of Pachacutec and Tupac Yupanqui in which the architecture of the Incas would come into its own. Pachacutec was responsible for building Cusco, Pisac, Patallacta, Ollantaytambo and Machu Picchu. His son, Tupac Yupanqui, would continue his work and expand the Incan Empire to encompass Peru and beyond - north to Ecuador, East to Bolivia, South to northern Argentina and Chile. His architectural work can be seen in his palace in Cusco, Choquequirao, and many of the Incan ruins extending beyond the Cusco region.

However it was the raise of Pachacutec which may have also led to the easy defeat of the Inca people by the Spanish. Pachacutec changed the manner in which the rule of the Kingdom would be passed down. No longer was it passed to the oldest son - after his defense of Cusco it would be passed down to the most deserving son.

Tupac Yupanqui's son Huayna Capac continued the Incan expansion, however in a more modest way than his father. Huayna Capac heard reports of foreign men to the north he set out to investigate. Both he and his son Ninan Cuyochi the heir apparent would die of smallpox in 1527 leaving the empire was in turmoil. Without a clear ruler the two sons Huascar from Cusco and Atahualpa from Quito would wage a civil war for control of the empire. One of Atahualpa's generals defeated Huascar in a battle outside Cusco in 1532. Atahualpa was delighted by the victory and began the journey south to take over the empire.

Unfortunately much of what we know, or think we know about the Incan Society is a mixture of fact myth.  Since the Incas did not have a written language what much of the history of Cusco was passed down through stories.  When the Spanish arrived in Peru, the earliest documented history of the Incas was prepared by Spanish who told the Inca History from their own perspective.

The earliest account of Inca life is the book Narrative of the Incas by Juan de Betanzos written in the 1550's however only recently fully translated. Much of Juan de Betanzos account of the Inca life came from his wife Angelina Anas Yupanqui the daughter of Incan King Wayna Capac and who had previously been married to Atahualpa as well as the man who killed him Francisco Pizarro.

Conquest of Peru

Francisco Pizarro was in Panama when he heard tale of the gold rich territory to the south known as Viru, on a river called Piru and the legendary city of El Dorado. Looking to expand his personal wealth Pizarro joined forces with a priest Hernando de Luque and a soldier, Diego de Almagro and together they laid plans to conquer the lands to the south.

Their first journey began in 1524, which ended on the Pacific coast of Colombia, where it ended due to bad weather, hostile natives and a lack of food. Having regrouped they laid sail again in 1526 with 2 ships with 160 men. Along the coast of Colombia the ships parted ways. Almagro returned to Panama for reinforcements, Pizarro set out by horseback to explore the Colombian Coast and his boat captained by Bartolome Ruiz continued south. Near Tumbes (the modern day boarder of Peru and Ecuador) Ruiz would capture a native raft, which on board carried textiles, ceramics, gold, silver and emeralds.

When the group reassembled in Colombia, they were energized with Ruiz's findings and eagerly set sail to the south. The Spanish landed along the coast of Ecuador where they met a large native population that had recently come under Incan rule. The group was extremely hostile; making the Spanish change their plans about coming ashore to exploit the area. However it is this initial contact, that brought the smallpox virus to the region which would set a chain of events into action that left the empire as easy prey to the Spanish upon their return.

Almagro returned to Panama for further reinforcements. The governor of Panama was unconvinced of the success of their efforts and ordered the others back to Panama as well. Pizarro would have to sail for Spain and petition King Charles I for permission to continue his expeditions of South America.

On their third expedition the Pizarro, Almagro and company landed near modern day Piura to find a much different empire than they would have encountered on their earlier efforts. Hernando de Soto was dispatched to explore the new lands within a few days he returned with an envoy from Atahualpa himself along with some presents with the invitation for a meeting with the strangers.

A Spanish group of less than 200 set out for Cajamarca where Atahualpa was resting after the lengthy war with his brother. The Spanish arrived and laid a trap. The Incas who were camped near a hill by the hot springs were requested to meet Pizarro in town the following day. Arriving late the following afternoon Atahualpa was met by a friar who he refused to accept Catholicism the Spanish sprang the trap. The meager Spanish forces defeated the some 80,000 Incas, and captured Atahualpa. To gain his freedom the great Inca agreed to pay the Spanish a ransom of gold and silver filling a large room 22 x 17 feet once with gold and twice with silver. Gold and silver flowed from throughout the kingdom many of the statues from Cusco were sent to pay the ransom. Atahualpa learned that the Spanish wished to see Huascar, fearing the Spanish would make a deal with his brother, Atahualpa ordered Huascar and his family executed.

With the empire sharply divided and without a leader to take on the Spanish. On July 26, 1533 Pizarro executed Atahualpa, the last of the great Incas in Cajamarca. Just a few months late on November 15, 1533 Francisco Pizarro captured the Inca Capital of Cusco.

Colonial Cusco

On April 1534 Cusco was established as the capital city of Peru under the Spanish. In his dispatches to Charles I Pizarro described Cusco as

This city is the greatest and finest ever seen in this country or anywhere in the Indies... We can assure your Majesty that it is so beautiful and has such fine buildings that it would be remarkable even in Spain.

The Spanish quickly saw the importance of Cusco and the riches of the area. During the colonial years the old Incan Empire was literally taken apart stone by stone and used as building material for the new Spanish styled city. Many of the new churches and important Spanish buildings were built directly on top of Incan Palaces and other significant structures.

Under the Spansih, Manco Inca Yupanqui was named king of the Incas.  He cooperated with the Spanish for a while. Then while the Spanish began feuding between each other he took advantage by recapturing Cusco Cusco in 1536. The Spanish regained control of the city and Manco Inca retreated to Vilcabamba where he and his successors ruled for another 36 years leading revolts against the Spanish.

Basilica Cathedral of Cusco

Considered one of the most beautiful churches in Latin America, the Basilica Cathedral of Cusco overlooks the city's main plaza - the Plaza de Armas. The Cathedral is shaped like a Latin Cross on an one-acre (4,047 sq m) site in the Gothic-Renaissance style with the baroque elements on its facade. There are two side churches, the Church of the Holy Family and the Church of the Triumph (named for the Triumph of the Spanish over the Incas) where the main entrance is located. The basis of the church is stones quarried from Sacsayhuman. Near the top of the church is the enormous bell of the tower of the Gospel, called Maria Angola which was fused in brass and gold. Its toll can be heard up to 25 miles (40 km). The interior consists of cedar and alder woods and the central nave house and main alter are made of granite. At the center of the church is a massive solid-silver alter.

Construction began in 1550 it took 94 years to complete the massive church. Though the construction of the complex was completed near the same time, there is little cohesiveness in the design primarily due to the fact the construction was being done by unskilled indigenous labor.

The cathedral's location was selected due to its importance to the Incas. While capital of the empire, the site of the cathedral was encircled by the palaces of kings. The site of the Cathedral was at the time the site of two important Inca structures the Sunturwasi a two story circular tower which served as a ceremonial location and warehouse for Incan weapons and the Inka Wiraqocha's palace Kiswarkancha the creator god.

One of the most popular reasons to visit the cathedral is to view its collection of archaeological artifacts, relics and an impressive collection of works from the Cusco School of Art (350 paintings). After the 1650 earthquake destroyed much of Cusco's churches and artwork the priests needed a relatively inexpensive way to adorn the reconstructed churches. During the 18th century they would bring art teachers from Europe to Cusco to teach the best artisans to create new religious art - and the Cusco School of Art was born. The local artists were limited in the subject of their paints to copy scenes, pictures or paintings which already existed in Europe.

The art from the school emerged in a new way - paintings were made in reds, yellows and earth tones with the extensive use of gold. The subjects lacked perspective and over time the artists began incorporating traditional Andean motifs within the paintings.

One of the most famous canvases at the cathedral is attributed to Marcos Zapata and is of Jesus Christ and the Apostles at the Last Supper. The painting lacks perspective and has a near flat appearance - yet one look at the meal makes it classically from the Cusco School - the feast is a roasted guinea pig place on a tray in the center of the painting accompanied by platters of papayas, hot peppers, potatoes and corn and rather than drinking traditional wine they are consuming chicha. Guides are quick to point out that the figure of Judas located in the foreground is holding a moneybag and has a striking resemblance to Conquistador Francisco Pizarro, the murderer of Atahualpa.

Koricancha - Santo Domingo Church

Of all the sites around the city, the best representation of the melding of cultures to create the flavor of Cusco is that of Koricancha or the Santo Domingo Church. This site is truly a collision of civilizations. To the Inca's Koricancha was the Temple of the Sun. Within it lived 4000 priests and attendants; it was the main Incan astronomical observatory. It was everything we think of Incas to be - incredible stone work, gold and silver, all done to worship the sun.

During the time of the Inca's the site was called Koricancha which in Quechua translates to 'the courtyard of gold'. Gold and silver were used to celebrate the temple of the most powerful god ? the sun. Sheets of gold and silver hung from the walls, life size gold statues, gold altars and a huge gold sun disc were found within the temple. The terraces facing the temple were filled with life size statues of gold and silver plants and animals. At summer solstice the sun continues to shine into a niche where only the Inca King was permitted to sit - in what can only be imagined as a blinding golden display. The temple was built with medium to large stones with a rectangular surface, the structure is straight horizontal something seen only in the most important temples at the time. The joints between stones are polished, and set so perfectly that you could not even slide a razor blade between them. The cross section structure is fastened, that is, with H shaped bronze clamps or clips in the internal joints that fastened together the lithic pieces avoiding horizontal displacements in case of earthquakes.

With the arrival of the Spanish, much of the gold and silver from Koricancha was removed to pay the ransom for Atahualpa, and after his execution the Spanish looted the rest of the temple's treasures. The Spanish continued, with the destruction of the temple's eastern side and used the western side as the foundation for their new Dominican convent of Santo Domingo. The temple remained covered by the Spanish church until an earthquake in the 1950's destroyed the Spanish walls exposing the originally hidden and perfectly intact Incan temple.

Today Koricancha - Santo Domingo is one of the main sites in Cusco. While the Baroque Church pales under the magnificent splendor of Koricancha, the juxtaposition makes it the perfect photographic representation of Cusco. Touring the site some of the most remarkable parts of the site include the Inca's solar round building which has become the perfectly rounded stone front of the church overlooking the main boulevard. As well as the earthquake proof trapezoidal doors cut from perfectly placed stones.

La Compania de Jesus

Located just off the main plaza near the Cusco Cathedral, La Compania de Jesus is an excellent example of Baroque Colonial Architecture. The original church was built in the late 1500's and was nearly completely destroyed in the 1650 earthquake that caused severe damage in much of Cusco. The exterior of the church is made almost completely of andesites has a beautiful and elaborate facade.

The interior of the church holds a transept that leads to the two side chapels; there are six altars all in different styles and a fully gilded pulpit. During a restoration in 1986, an underground chapel was discovered under the altar. The church is home to several interesting pieces of religious art including the panel of the Transfiguration attributed to Jesuit priest Diego de la Puente. It is home to an extensive collection of art from the Cusqueno School including several paintings of Saint Ignatius de Loyola founder of the Jesuits by Marcos Zapata one of the last members of the Cusco School of Art as well as a Crucifixion by Cristo de Burgos.

Near the northern wall there are two historic painting one depicting the marriage of Spanish Captain Onas Marin Garcia de Loyola, nephew of Saint Ignatius of Loyola and captor of Tupac Amaru to Dona Beatriz Qoya Clara, daughter of Sayri Tapac and niece of Tupac Amaru. From this marriage Lorenza Nustra de Loyola was conceived. Lorenza was handcuffed by Don Juan de Borja, the son of San Francisco de Borja, whose marriage is represented on the other side of the canvas. Highlights of the canvas include Tupaq Amaru Inca, Tupac Syayri Beatrice and Princess Clara in native clothing holding an achiwa a kind of umbrella made of color feathers only used by the Inka.

Like many colonial sites, La Compania was built on Inca Foundations. During the days of the Inca Empire the Place of Huayna Capac or Amaru Cancha stood on the site and was said to be the most beautiful of all the Incan Palaces.

La Merced

The original La Merced Church and Monastery was built in 1535 and destroyed during the 1650 earthquake. The current Church and Convent were built in 1654. It is considered the third most important church in Cusco after the Basilica Cathedral and La Compania and was named a Minor Basilica by Pope Pius XII in 1946.

The baroque church has a beautiful facade and the convent's cloisters are a beautiful detailed work of andesite. It is two stores in a square shaped with Corinthian style carved columns. The monastery has a small museum of religious art including the famous Monstrance about 3 feet high made of gold and covered in 1600 pearls and 1500 diamonds.

Inside the church's crypt that is located under the main altar are the remains of conquistadors Gonzalo Pizarro, brother of the Francisco Pizarro, whose head was fried in oil and sent to Lima; as well as the body of Diego de Almagro el Viejo (one time partner of Pizarro and later adversary), and the body of Almagro el Joven (son of Diego).

Santa Catalina Convent and Museum

The still active Dominican convent of Santa Catalina was founded by Lucia Isabel Rivera de Padilla who had a bad experience having seen the recently built monetary in Arequipa destroyed in a volcanic eruption, began construction of the convent in 1601 only to have it destroyed by the earthquake of 1650. The convent was reconstructed and opened 4 years later. Local craftsmen carved the altars found inside the church at the end of the 17th century carved convents.

Santa Catalina is home to an impressive amount of Cusqueno artwork. There are paintings inside by Juan Espinoza de los Monteros representing Saint Catherine of Siena's life and others by Mefecit Sanchez Lorenzo representing both Saint Catherine's Glorification and the Virgin's Assumption.

The convent was built on the ruins of Aallawasi or the Incan House of Virgins. It was something like an Incan Convent.

The virgins were young village girls chosen between 8 - 10 years of age based on their looks who would spend the next 6 to 7 years in the temple next to the Temple of the Sun where they were taught to weave fine clothing and robes for the nobles and hangings for ceremonies. Afterwards many would often concubines for the Inca or marry nobles.

While here they would devote their lives to the sun god and aided in the preparation of religious ceremonies, the weaving of clothing for the Inka for religious purposes and the creating of sanqhua ceremonial bread and chicha a maize beer. After four years in service the women were ready to become mamakiuna priestesses and marry noblemen who were worthy of the honor.

Sacsayhuman

Together with the city of Cusco the archaeological site of Sacsayhuman form the shape of a puma when viewed from above. Sacsayhuman is the most impressive example of Incan stone work on a massive scale.  Though many books refer to the site as a fortress during the time of the Incas the site was the Royal House of the Sun where religious ceremonies were held.  It was not until after the arrival of the Spanish the site was used as a fortress by Manco Inca in an uprising against the Spanish.

Originally built by the the Kilke and expanded upon by the Incas, Sacsayhuman was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 for being one of the most impressive archaeological sites in the Americas.  Carbon dating shows the construction goes back at least a millennium.

While no one knows exactly how the site was constructed it is theorized that stones were quarried and then brought to the site by rope.  It must have taken between 20,000-30,000 men to construct the site over a 60 year period.

Stones blocks measuring up to 200 tons fitted together so precisely without the use of mortar that a single sheet of paper can not slide between stones.  The precise rock work includes varied shaped walls and artistically bent corners.

The incredible size of the rocks used to build the site is what has allowed the site to survive so many years.  The shaped boulders at Sacsayhuman are the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic America. While the Spanish extracted a large number of rocks from the site to build their churches in Cusco, many of the remaining stones were simply too large to be quarried by the Spanish.

Each June 24th Peruvians from through out the region come to Sacsayhuman to celebrate the annual Inca Festival of Inti Raymi the winter solstice.  The spectacular attracts thousands of visitors each year and reenacts the original Inti Raymi Celebration which last nine days consisting of colorful dancers, processions, animal sacrifices and other rituals to ensure fertile season.

Puca Pucara

Quecha for "Red Fortress" Puca Purcara was the military checkpoint for Cusco. The site is noted for its high reddish colored walls which gives the site its name. Inside the walls there is a staircase as well as a series of aqueducts.

Kenko - Qenqo

The shrine at Qenqo is located on a rocky hilltop just above Cusco. A series of staircases, holes and channels the city was most likely used to store chicha for Incan rituals. The site features a semi-circular plaza with several large niches surrounding a center stone figure within a chamber like an idol in his own shrine.

Tambomachay

Tambomachay is another good example of Incan architecture. The site consists of a number of platforms, niches and fountains from which water continues to flow today. During the time of the Incas Tambomachy were sacred Incan baths where they would worship the water deity.