Craft Villages
Traveling north of Quito along the Pan-American Highway lie the lush volcanic
highlands. This land is rich in friendly and colorfully attired indigenous
people, historic haciendas, sparkling lakes, archeological treasures and towering volcanoes with verdant
slopes. The Otavalo Valley and surrounding highlands are a favorite
destination of locals and tourists alike. A visit to the craft villages of
the Northern Andes provides a unique glimpse
into the lives of the indigenous people who inhabit the area. The luxurious haciendas offer a
haven to relax while enjoying the magnificent countryside. Shoppers will
delight with the many bargains to be had at the many craft villages: marzipan figures
in Calderon, leather goods in Cotacachi, wood carvings in San Antonio de
Ibarra, musical instruments in Peguche, textiles in Agato and not to be missed
is haggling for everything from handicrafts to livestock at the
world-famous Otavalo Market. From mountain climbing, hiking, fishing, horses and
mountain biking to world-class spas the Northern Andes has it all.
Calderon
Traveling north approximately 6 miles (10 km) from the capital city of Quito is Calderon. This small
town is famous for its Bread Dough Dolls. Local artisans create a number of figurines from a mixture of
Marzipan and preservatives giving them firmness, resistance to insects and
durability. Shops have been set up where you can see the dolls created and
purchase finished work. The colorful and complicated figures come in a variety
of shapes and sizes including animals and nativity scenes.
The origin of the dolls has been traced back to the practice bread dolls created for All
Souls Day. Over the years the different types of figures began to appear. Today the various dolls are an
inexpensive and make an excellent souvenir of the area.
Guallabamba
Continuing north the Pan American Highway crosses the Guayllabamba River at the town of the
same name. This small town is a favorite weekend spot for the people of Quito.
Located 18 miles (30 km) north in a warm valley there are many walking paths and the Quito
Zoo is located on the east side of town.
Guayllabamba is an important agricultural center of the area
producing a great number of subtropical fruit including the Chirimoyas (sticky
apples) and Avocados. Locals selling the various fruits can be seen just off the main road.
Tabacundo
Near Guayllabamba the road forks the left heading towards Tabacundo.
Following the path approximately 6 miles (10 km) a dirt road branches off towards
the pre-Incan Pyramids of Cochasqui. Members of either the Cara or the Cayambi-Caranqui tribe created these clay pyramids
between 950 and 1550 AD. Most of the 15 pyramids are covered by dirt and grass though 2 have been excavated.
This region was of extreme importance to the Cayambi-Caranqui tribe who came to this region
to worship their gods prior to the arrival of the Incas in the North of Ecuador
and the Spanish. Local indigenous
still view these pyramids of religious importance.
These pyramids located on the equator are the site celebrations for the
change in the position of the sun denoted by the solstices and equinoxes.
Peguche
Peguche is one of the wealthiest towns in the
Otavalo Valley. The town’s artisans are renowned weavers. They
create detailed tapestries, rugs, blankets, bags and clothing,
which are shipped throughout the world. The immaculate houses, foreign cars and the hum of weaving
machines in the background signifies their success.
Jose Cotacachi's folklore shop just off the
main plaza sells locally made goods and works as the town’s
unofficial host offering information, history, and will provide
tours of the weaving shops for those who ask.
Neighboring Agato has a more traditional
approach to weaving than Peguche. Chickens, Pigs and small
children line the dusty road into the town’s central plaza made of
dirt and rock. The town’s traditional appearance reflects their
attitude towards life and weaving. The town’s people continue to
weave in the same manner their families have for centuries.
The Andrango-Chiza family works out of the Tahuantinsuyo Weaving Workshop near the center of town. Miguel
Andrango runs the shop and welcomes visitors explaining the
various techniques including several looms including the
back-strap loom and the Telaros de Español a larger loom that
requires the coordinated use of both the hands and feet.
Miguel’s goods are in heavy demand and can only be purchased at
his workshop. Courses are also offered during the summer months
for people interesting in learning the craft.
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