CRAFT VILLAGES OF ECUADOR

Traveling north of Quito along the Pan-American Highway lie the lush volcanic highlands. This land is rich in friendly and colorfully attired indigenous people, historic haciendas, sparkling lakes, archeological treasures and towering volcanoes with verdant slopes. The Otavalo Valley and surrounding highlands are a favorite destination of locals and tourists alike. A visit to the craft villages of the Northern Andes provides a unique glimpse into the lives of the indigenous people who inhabit the area. The luxurious haciendas offer a haven to relax while enjoying the magnificent countryside. Shoppers will delight with the many bargains to be had at the many craft villages: marzipan figures in Calderon, leather goods in Cotacachi, wood carvings in San Antonio de Ibarra, musical instruments in Peguche, textiles in Agato and not to be missed is haggling for everything from handicrafts to livestock at the world-famous Otavalo Market. From mountain climbing, hiking, fishing, horses and mountain biking to world-class spas the Northern Andes has it all.

Calderon

Traveling north approximately 6 miles (10 km) from the capital city of Quito is Calderon. This small town is famous for bread dough dolls. Local artisans create a number of figurines from a mixture of masapan a mixture of wheat flour, white clue and water. Batches are created in natural white as well as a rainbow of colors.

The origin of the dolls has been traced back to the practice bread dolls created for All Souls Day. The dough is hand rolled and sculpted in to an array of shapes and figures small tools including knives and toothpicks are used to create details. Once completed the figurine is left to air-dry for several days before they are painted and lacquered. Over the years the different types of figures began to appear. Today the various dolls are an inexpensive and make an excellent souvenir of the area.

Shops have been set up where you can see the dolls created and purchase finished work. The colorful and complicated figures come in a variety of shapes and sizes including animals and nativity scenes. A typicall shop makes about 20,000 pieces per month.

Guayllabamba

Traveling north from Calderon on the Pan American Highway the next stop is the agricultural town of Guayllabamba. This small town is a favorite weekend spot for the people of Quito. Located 18 miles (30 km) north of the capital, Guayabamba is in a warm valley. There are many walking paths and the Quito Zoo is located on the east side of town.

Guayllabamba produces a great number of subtropical fruit including the native chirimoyas (sticky apples or ice cream fruit) and avocados. Locals vendors have fruit stands along the Pan-American Highway offering those passing the opportunity to taste of the local produce.

Cochasqui

Near Guayllabamba the road forks the left heading towards Tabacundo. Following the path approximately 6 miles (10 km) a dirt road branches off towards the pre-Incan pyramids of Cochasqui. Members of the Cayambi-Caranqui tribe created these Pucaras (clay pyramids) between 950 and 1550 AD as a fortress in the war against the Quitu. Most of the 17 pyramids are covered by dirt and grass though 2 have been excavated.

This region was of extreme importance to the Cayambi-Caranqui tribe who came to this region to worship their gods prior to the arrival of the Incas in the north of Ecuador and the Spanish. Local indigenous still view these pyramids of religious importance. These pyramids located on the equator are the site celebrations for the change in the position of the sun denoted by the solstices and equinoxes.

Weaving Towns - Peguche, Agoto, Carabula and Iluman

Peguche is one of the wealthiest towns in the Otavalo Valley. The town's artisans are renowned weavers. They create detailed tapestries, rugs, blankets, bags and clothing, which are shipped throughout the world. The immaculate houses, foreign cars and the hum of weaving machines in the background signifies their success.

Jose Cotacachi's folklore shop just off the main plaza sells locally made goods and works as the town's unofficial host offering information, history, and will provide tours of the weaving shops for those who ask. José Cotacachi is an renowned master weaver and designer his textiles reflect the art of the many Andean cultures over the centuries including the Valdiva, Nazca and Inca

A short walk from the village is a 17 meter high waterfall said to have mystical value. The waterfall is located in a protected forest and the walk can be a welcome chance to stretch your legs.

Neighboring Agato has a more traditional approach to weaving than Peguche. Miguel Andrango is Ecuador's most famous weaver. Visitors to his work shop will find that he creates his weavings in the same manner that they have for centuries. He shows visitors the step-by-step process by which he cleans the wool, spins and dyes the yarn, and weaves richly-colored textiles on including the back-strap loom and the Telaros de Espanol a larger loom that requires the coordinated use of both the hands and feet. Miguel's goods are in heavy demand and can only be purchased at his workshop. Courses are also offered during the summer months for people interesting in learning the craft.

Nearby Iluman remains off the beaten path, but can be an interesting stop for visitors in addition to textiles visitors will find a variety of handmade musical instruments and shaman who are said to have mystical powers to cure the ill and ward off evil spirits.

Cotacachi

Northwest of Otavalo is Ecuador's leather capital of Cotacachi. This small town has every possible creation made from leather possible. From jackets, hats, belts, wallets, purses, shoes, backpacks and briefcases to works of art these leather goods are both good in quality and a good bargain.

Cotacachi hosts the Festival of St. John each June 24^th. This festival illustrates the influence of the Spanish and Catholicism on the indigenous people of Ecuador. Before the arrival of the Spanish the indigenous people worshiped the sun and celebrated its movement. Festivals filled the country each equinox and solstice. A large festival occurred every year on June 21^st celebrating the summer solstice. This massive festival created a source of concern for the conquistadors who feared uprising. The strong Catholic presence frowned upon any festival worshiping any god other than theirs. The Spanish established a new series of festivals to alleviate these fears and concerns. New festivals were created replacing the indigenous festival with the name of Catholic saints. Each area was assigned a specific date for their new sanctioned festival permitting the Spaniards monitor the festival's activities.

Nearby Cotachachi is Cuicocha Lake. A beautiful crater lake at the base of Cotacahci Volcano and popular hiking area. The trail around the lake takes approximately 6 hours and offers stunning scenery and a chance to view flora and fauna along the way including the Andean Condor. There are boat trips on the lake taking visitors to the middle where sulfur gasses rise to the surface creating bubbles as they reach the surface. lake is located within the Cotacachi Cayapas National Park which stretches over a number of biological zones from the highlands towards the coast.

Cotacachi-Cayapas National Park

Continuing north, the fertile deltas of the Santiago and Cayapas rivers provide the nutrients the highest mangroves in the world on the edge of the Cotacachi-Cayapas National Park.

The national park is home to virgin rain forest where it is possible to see howler monkeys, spider monkeys and a leopard if you are lucky.

Entering from Borbon this area, visitors can visit the Choco Lodge, where while experiencing the bio-diverse forest, you can also learn something of the indigenous Chachi culture and the musical traditions of the Afro-Ecuadorian people who inhabit this area. Travelers should be aware that there is malaria in this area.

Parque Condor Conservation Station

Overlooking Otavalo is the Parque Condor, a Dutch owned non-profit foundation established to rescue and rehabilitate Andean Condors and other birds of prey including vultures, raptors and hawks. The park is open to visitors and offers visitors a chance to learn more about these large birds.

Flight demonstrations are offered at 11:30am and 4:30pm in a gorgeous amphitheater looking out over the valley stretching between Otavalo’s two closest volcanoes–Imbabura and Cotacachi.

Ibarra

Ibarra is known as the White City is the provincial capital. Although the city was completely destroyed by an earthquakes in 1606 and 1868, it still preserves its colonial architecture, of white washed buildings with red tile roofs. Several of the cities churches are worth visiting including Santo Domingo with its religious art collection, San Agustin and the Basilica de La Dolorosa.

For years Ibarra was the starting point for a spectacular train ride to the coast. The train carried both produce and passengers. The train route was replaced by a bus line in the 1990's . In recent years trains have began operating again and offer a scenic trip into the Ecuadorian countryside. The Ibarra - Primer Paso route runs to the Mira River basin passing through 18 tunnels and across a suspension bridge.

Ibarra is known for helados de pailia, a handmade ice cream. The original recipe was made using snow from the nearby Imbabura Volcano and mixing it in a bronze pan with fruit juices until frozen.

Ibarra is home to two colorful festivals each year El Prehgon and Virgen del Carmen on July 16th and the Fiesta de los Lagos (Festival of the Lakes) takes place in Ibarra September the last weekend in September each year.

San Antonio de Ibarra

Just west of San Antonio along the Pan-American Highway is San Antonio de Ibarra. This small town has in recent years received world acclaim for its woodcarvings. The carvings vary from small boxes to large human figures to pieces of modern art.

The Union Artesanal de San Antonio de Ibarra at the end of Parque Calderon has a collection of artist shops where visitors can view the works in progress. Classes on woodcarving are also offered though advance reservations are required.

Recommended Hotels

Hacienda Cusin - a restored 17th century country estate located a 20-minute walk from Otavalo.

Hacienda Pinsaqui - one of Ecuador's oldest Haciendas located north of the Otavalo Market.

La Mirage - Garden Hotel and Spa a 5 star hotel and spa built on the grounds of a historic hacienda. Features orchid filled gardens full of peacocks.