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Craft Villages

Traveling north of Quito along the Pan-American Highway lie the lush volcanic highlands.  This land is rich in friendly and colorfully attired indigenous people, historic haciendas, sparkling lakes, archeological treasures and towering volcanoes with verdant slopes.  The Otavalo Valley and surrounding highlands are a favorite destination of locals and tourists alike.  A visit to the craft villages of the Northern Andes provides a unique glimpse into the lives of the indigenous people who inhabit the area. The luxurious haciendas offer a haven to relax while enjoying the magnificent countryside.  Shoppers will delight with the many bargains to be had at the many craft villages: marzipan figures in Calderon, leather goods in Cotacachi, wood carvings in San Antonio de Ibarra, musical instruments in Peguche, textiles in Agato and not to be missed is haggling for everything from handicrafts to livestock at the world-famous Otavalo Market. From mountain climbing, hiking, fishing, horses and mountain biking to world-class spas the Northern Andes has it all.

Calderon

Traveling north approximately 6 miles (10 km) from the capital city of Quito is Calderon. This small town is famous for its Bread Dough Dolls. Local artisans create a number of figurines from a mixture of Marzipan and preservatives giving them firmness, resistance to insects and durability. Shops have been set up where you can see the dolls created and purchase finished work. The colorful and complicated figures come in a variety of shapes and sizes including animals and nativity scenes.

The origin of the dolls has been traced back to the practice bread dolls created for All Souls Day. Over the years the different types of figures began to appear. Today the various dolls are an inexpensive and make an excellent souvenir of the area.

Guallabamba

Continuing north the Pan American Highway crosses the Guayllabamba River at the town of the same name. This small town is a favorite weekend spot for the people of Quito. Located 18 miles (30 km) north in a warm valley there are many walking paths and the Quito Zoo is located on the east side of town. Guayllabamba is an important agricultural center of the area producing a great number of subtropical fruit including the Chirimoyas (sticky apples) and Avocados. Locals selling the various fruits can be seen just off the main road.

Tabacundo

Near Guayllabamba the road forks the left heading towards Tabacundo. Following the path approximately 6 miles (10 km) a dirt road branches off towards the pre-Incan Pyramids of Cochasqui. Members of either the Cara or the Cayambi-Caranqui tribe created these clay pyramids between 950 and 1550 AD. Most of the 15 pyramids are covered by dirt and grass though 2 have been excavated.

This region was of extreme importance to the Cayambi-Caranqui tribe who came to this region to worship their gods prior to the arrival of the Incas in the North of Ecuador and the Spanish. Local indigenous still view these pyramids of religious importance. These pyramids located on the equator are the site celebrations for the change in the position of the sun denoted by the solstices and equinoxes.

Peguche

Peguche is one of the wealthiest towns in the Otavalo Valley. The town’s artisans are renowned weavers. They create detailed tapestries, rugs, blankets, bags and clothing, which are shipped throughout the world. The immaculate houses, foreign cars and the hum of weaving machines in the background signifies their success.

Jose Cotacachi's folklore shop just off the main plaza sells locally made goods and works as the town’s unofficial host offering information, history, and will provide tours of the weaving shops for those who ask.

Neighboring Agato has a more traditional approach to weaving than Peguche. Chickens, Pigs and small children line the dusty road into the town’s central plaza made of dirt and rock. The town’s traditional appearance reflects their attitude towards life and weaving. The town’s people continue to weave in the same manner their families have for centuries.

The Andrango-Chiza family works out of the Tahuantinsuyo Weaving Workshop near the center of town. Miguel Andrango runs the shop and welcomes visitors explaining the various techniques including several looms including the back-strap loom and the Telaros de Español a larger loom that requires the coordinated use of both the hands and feet. Miguel’s goods are in heavy demand and can only be purchased at his workshop. Courses are also offered during the summer months for people interesting in learning the craft.

 

Leatherworkers

Cotacachi

Just northwest of Otavalo is Ecuador’s leather capital of Cotacachi. This small town has every possible creation made from leather possible. From jackets, hats, belts, wallets, purses, shoes, backpacks and briefcases to works of art these leather goods are both good in quality and a good bargain.

Cotacachi hosts the Festival of St. John each June 24th. This festival illustrates the influence of the Spanish and Catholicism on the indigenous people of Ecuador. Before the arrival of the Spanish the indigenous people worshiped the sun and celebrated its movement. Festivals filled the country each equinox and solstice. A large festival occurred every year on June 21st celebrating the summer solstice. This massive festival created a source of concern for the conquistadors who feared uprising. The strong Catholic presence frowned upon any festival worshiping any god other than theirs. The Spanish established a new series of festivals to alleviate these fears and concerns. New festivals were created replacing the indigenous festival with the name of Catholic saints. Each area was assigned a specific date for their new sanctioned festival permitting the Spaniards monitor the festival's activities.

Ibarra

Ibarra Church

Ibarra, "the White City", is the provincial capital. Although the city was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1868, it still preserves its colonial architecture, of white painted houses with red tile roofs. Several of the cities churches are worth visiting including Santo Domingo with its religious art collection, San Agustin and the Basilica de La Dolorosa.

For years Ibarra was the starting point for a spectacular train ride to the coast. The train carried both produce and passengers. The train has recently been replaced by a bus service.

The Festival of the Lakes takes place in Ibarra September 24-28 each year and is very popular in the region.

San Antonio de Ibarra

Just west of San Antonio along the Pan-American Highway is San Antonio de Ibarra. This small town has in recent years received world acclaim for its woodcarvings. The carvings vary from small boxes to large human figures to pieces of modern art.

The Union Artesanal de San Antonio de Ibarra at the end of Parque Calderon has a collection of artist shops where visitors can view the works in progress. Classes on woodcarving are also offered though advance reservations are required. 

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Weaving Loom

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