QUITO
Quito, the main city in the Ecuadorian Andes, is two cities in one. Contrasts between
the colonial old city and the modern new city to the north are as visible as between those
of its fertile green valleys and the snowcapped volcanoes overhead.
In 1979 UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) named
Quito a world heritage site, becoming a City of Cultural Patrimony of Mankind by
the Organization of United Nations.
Located at 9600 ft (3000 m) the temperatures in Quito tend to be more mild then
one would image. The average temperatures range from 55º F (7º C) at night,
to 78º F (26º C) at noon, averaging 64ºF (15º C).
OLD CITYOld-town Quito recounts the history of Quito in its colonial feel and charm. The oldest
and the best preserved South America capital it was settled in the first millennium
severed as capital for the Shyris culture in the 12th century, the Quitus culture in the
15th century, and Inca Kingdom in the 16th century.
After the death of Atahualpa the Inca warriors continued to fight the Spanish.
Inca General Rumiñahui with help of the Cañari continued the struggle against the
Spanish. After being defeated near Cotopaxi and fleeing north, Rumiñahui it would
not be long before the Spanish would conquer Quito. Rather than surrender the Inca
capital, he set it on fire destroying their city. Quito was re-founded by the
Spanish on December 6, 1534 a date that is still celebrated with bullfights, dances and
parades.
The Spanish patterned old-town Quito in traditional fashion. The Cathedral, the
Archbishop's, Presidential and Municipal Palaces encircle the Plaza de
Independencia (the main square). Radiating from this core are assorted adobe whitewashed buildings bordering
the narrow cobblestone streets and lovely parks. The city became the government center for
the region known as "The Most Royal and Noble City San Francisco de Quito" and
the capital of the "Presidency of Quito", a territory that would become modern
day Ecuador.
Built between 1562 and 1567 the Cathedral of Quito is considered to be the oldest
Cathedral in South America. San Francisco or the "Escorial of the Andes"
was one of the first religious monuments to be constructed in the Americas. San
Francisco is over 30,000 square meters and consists of a main plaza, the main church, the
chapels of Cantuña and Villacis and a large convent.
Colonial Quito was home to the Quito School of Art a Baroque style mixing of
Spanish, Italian, Moorish, Flemish and native art. This style is illustrated in the
rich interiors of the beautiful churches of San Francisco, Santo Domingo and La Compañia
in old-town. Quito's old city is the least changed of any of the Latin American
capital's and the churches there are both places of worship and art museums. High
above old-town is the cities guardian, poised alone on Panecillo Hill, this Winged Virgin
keeps a watchful eye on both old and new Quito.
NORTH QUITO
To the north of old-town stretching through the valley and up the slopes of Pichincha
is new Quito a lively, modern city. The new town is a bustling city with most modern
conveniences. The skyline is filled with towering apartments, hotels, embassies and
offices. Restaurants, cafes, discos, stores and palm trees align the broad avenues.
Modern works of art celebrating Ecuadorian life are displayed at the roundabouts and main
streets.
In both old and new town rich culture can be found. The melody of Latin music blends
with rooster crows and car horns. Bright colors and textures of traditional clothing
and handicrafts are as common as the business suits.
AVENIDA AMAZONAS
Running north to south through North Quito is the Avenida Amazonas,
the backbone of new Quito. The street begins at El Ejido Park then runs
north past the airport crossing most major streets and businesses along
the way. By orienting yourself with the Avenida Amazonas you will
quickly be able to navigate Quito.
Busses and taxis pass along the street bringing travelers from one
end of the city to the other. The city's trolley system operates a
few blocks to the west of Amazonas and a new trolley line is being
constructed a few blocks to the east, offering a fast and easy
alternative for traveling into the Old City and North Quito.
Many of Quito's hotels can be found along the Avenida Amazonas as
well as shops, malls, movie theatres, banks, and exchange houses. Almost
anything you may want in North Quito can be found on or within a few
blocks of Amazonas. On weekdays indigenous people from the highland
towns bring their handicraft goods to sell on the sidewalks creating an
impromptu handicraft market and a souvenir hunters dream.
MARISCAL DISTRICT
One of the most picturesque streets in the new city, Avenida Calama is the heart of the Mariscal District.
Mariscal, was once "the place" to live in Quito (running along Juan Leon
Mera between Veintimilla and Wilson). The large homes were built with
outrageous imagination reflecting Ecuador's view of the world in the
1950's and 60's.
As Quito continued growing to the north, many of the families who
once lived in Mariscal moved to newer sections or to the valleys below.
Business began moving in and Mariscal became the tourist center of Quito
with a selection of hotels, restaurants, Internet cafes, discos and
shops.
Unlike other streets in the area, Avenida Calama is well preserved with
many of the original houses remaining. Beginning at Avenida Amazonas there are a number of cafes and
bars normally bustling with people. Avenida Calama is a great
place to meet other travelers, have a cup of coffee and enjoy a
book during the day, or dance the night away.
PARQUE LA CAROLINA
The Parque La Carolina at Avenidas Amazonas and Republica is a large
recreational park where Quito goes to relax outdoors. On weekends the
park is buzzing with soccer matches, volleyball games, skateboarding,
outdoor aerobic classes, paddleboats, family games and picnics. A
botanical garden and dinosaur museum have also been recently added to
the park.
Quito's police force has made great strides in making La Carolina
safe for visitors. Bicycle Police patrol the park's interior during the
day making it safe again for daytime visits.
Several of Quito's major shopping centers surround La Carolina
including the Plaza de Las Americas, Quicentro and El Jardin.
These shopping malls offer a variety of both local and imported goods as
well as supermarkets.
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SIGHTS
PLAZA DE INDEPENDENCIA
The center of old-town, the Plaza de Independencia is a fascinating place to start a tour of historical Quito. Built between
1550 and 1562 the Cathedral boarders one side of the plaza. The outer walls
feature plaques of the founding fathers. Inside this elaborately decorated church
are examples of the Quito School of Art and the independence hero, General Antonio Jose
de Sucre's tomb. Visiting hours are 8am-10am and 2pm-4pm daily.
Just around the corner from the Cathedral are the golden doors of El
Sagrario. Originally built in the 17th century as a cathedral chapel it has
been completely renovated.
Next to the Cathedral is the Presidential Palace. Guarded by
officers in traditional 19th century red, blue and gold costume, this has been the site of
much of Ecuador's political history. Visitors are welcome to view the inner courtyard
featuring a fountain, columns, iron balconies and the Guyasamin mosaic mural of the
journey to explorer the Amazon.
Hours are 9am-12pm and 3pm-6pm.
LA RONDA
One of the oldest streets in the Old City, La Ronda is a fall back to
days gone by its buildings painted bright white with blue windows frames and
doors and touched by pots of red geraniums. This is a reminder of a decade ago when all
buildings in "Old Quito" were required to be painted a specific color.
The area, though beautiful, is not one of the safest areas in town. Take
extra precautions when traveling in this area and make sure to keep an eye on
all of your belongings.
PANECILLO HILL
Visible from many locations in and around Quito, looming over the old city is the
Panecillo Hill topped with a statue of Quito's Winged Virgin. From the top visitors are welcome to views of both the old and the
new city as well as a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains. To
reach the top of the hill requires a long climb up numerous steps at the end
of Garcia Moreno. The walk up has been the known site of countless pick
pockets and robberies. The police have made recent attempts to
clean up crime in the area.
SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH
Constructed between 1535-1605 the San Francisco Church and Monastery with its
104 Doric columns is the largest structure in colonial Quito. Built on an
Incan holy site this complex took 59 years to construct, it is the oldest church
in South America and considered a great masterpiece of baroque art.
Located just off the busy Plaza de San Francisco the walls and ceiling are covered in gold
leaf. Inside is Bernard de Legarda's sculpture of the Winged Virgin,
whose facial features resembles the indigenous peoples.
Open Monday-Saturday 9am-6pm and Sundays 9am-12noon.
CANTUÑA CHAPEL
To one side of the San Francisco church is the atrium known as the Cantuña
Chapel. Named for the local mason, Cantuña, who built the chapel. Its construction is riddled with rumors and legends. One says the
chapel was financed by treasures from the Incan empire. Another
that Cantuña agreed to build the chapel within a certain amount of
time. When the time grew short and the chapel was only half
complete Cantuña made a pact with the devil agreeing to trade his soul
for the chapel to be complete by morning. In the morning the
chapel was finished except for a single missing brick, which voided the contract
and saved Cantuña's soul.
Cantuña's remains lie next door in the San Francisco Church. The chapel has a magnificent
wood carved altar and a stone sculpture of the builder.
LA COMPAÑIA DE JESUS
This ornate 18th century Jesuit church took 163 years to
finish. A blend of Baroque and Quiteño art nearly every inch is covered
with gold leaf. More than 1 ton of gold was used in its
construction.
The ceilings is frequently referred to as the Sistine Chapel of Quito. Some say it is the most splendid church in Latin America.
Located at Calle Garcia Moreno 1 block from the Plaza de Independencia.
SAN AGUSTIN
At the Corner of Chile and Guayaquil, 1 block from the
Plaza de Independencia, is San Augustine Church and Monastery. In
1809 this was the sight where Ecuador declared its independence.
In the middle of the complex is a peaceful courtyard filled with fresh
flowers. Robed monks live at the complex and help to preserve the great oil
works by Miguel de Santiago hung there.
The church is open daily the monastery is closed on weekends.
SANTO DOMINGO
Travel east on Calle Bolivar to the Plaza Santa Domingo. On one side
of the plaza is the church and church museum. The church houses a
statue of the virgin that was a gift from King Charles V of Spain.
The Museum is home to a large collection of art from the Quito School.
Open daily located at the junction of Rocaforte, Flores, Bolivar and Guayaquil.
Leaving the Santo Domingo travel to the Southeast where the houses were carved with stone arches connecting the houses.
MUSEUMS
CASA DE CULTURA
At the junction of the "new city" and the "old town" behind El Ejido park at the corner of 12 de Octubre
and Avenida Patria is the Casa de Cultura. Offering a huge selection of art from Ecuador's different periods.
The museum winds it way around the building the different rooms and floors being dedicated to specific periods. The impressive
collection seems overwhelming as it tells the country's history through the eyes of various artists.
Permanent exhibits include the Museum of Modern Art with paintings and sculptures created
since 1830. The Museum of Indigenous Work features traditional dress and adornments from Ecuador's many Indigenous groups.
The Museum of Musical Instruments is known as being one of the best musical instrument collections in the
world. The museum also has an extraordinary collection of Pre-Colombian and Colonial Art.
Open Tuesday-Friday 10am-6pm and Saturdays 10am-2pm.
MUSEUM GUYASAMIN
Located in the Northeast section of Quito at Bosmediano 543 Bellavista the Guyasmin
Museum exhibits a selection posters, signed prints and other work of Oswaldo Guyasamin, many of which are available for sale.
Son of an indigenous carpenter the artist's works always portrayed the native's cause with great passion. A staunch defender
of their cause Guyasimn's art depicted various aspects of life in Ecuador. He divided his work into three categories Huacaynam
(the road of tears, in Quechua), the age of wrath, and the age of tenderness.
The museum also houses the artist's personal collection of pre-Colombian and Colonial art and a studio selling his daughter's jewelry
designs. Set high on a hill above Quito offering great views of Quito's red tile roofs in a peaceful setting, the Guyasamin museum is
an excellent place to enjoy a picnic lunch.
Open Monday to Friday 9am-12:30pm and 3pm-6:30pm and Sundays 9am-2:30pm.
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